Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge near Roswell, New Mexico, is only a 90-minute drive from Ruidoso along Highway 70/380 and makes an excellent day trip for nature lovers. The refuge’s many distinct ecosystems attract breeding and migrating birds like Lesser Sandhill Cranes and a wide variety of waterfowl and shorebirds and offer homes for one of the most diverse dragonfly populations in North America. On top of that, several species of animals are only found there.
Let’s explore what makes Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge such a fascinating place to visit.
Bitter Lake’s Geology
We must start with geology to understand what makes Bitter Lake NWR so special. Like nearby locations, such as Bottomless Lakes State Park and Carlsbad Caverns National Park, the land here is riddled with limestone. When a natural spring gurgles up below limestone, the limestone begins to dissolve. After centuries, the limestone may be washed away, leaving only sturdier rock surrounding the space where it once was. If the surface rock is thin, it may collapse, creating a sinkhole that is then filled with the spring water.
Each sinkhole scattered throughout both Bitter Lake NWR and Bottomless Lakes State Park has a unique water chemistry. Some have clear water, and some are heavily alkaline, like the soil in the area. Fish, dragonflies, damselflies, and other creatures survive in the sinkhole that offers the distinct ecosystem they need.
More than 70 sinkholes are scattered around the refuge, each numbered and monitored by a biologist. The sinkholes are primarily in parts of the refuge that are closed to the public, but may be seen by requesting a special tour for your group.
In addition to the springs that feed the sinkholes, water flows to the Roswell Artesian Basin from three mountain ranges, feeding the rivers and underground aquifers.
Habitat for Migrating and Nesting Birds
Bitter Lake NWR is located at a convergence of the short-grass prairie of the Southern Plains, the Chihuahuan Desert, the Pecos River, and the Roswell Artesian Basin. The 24,563-acre refuge provides habitat for 75 species of birds that nest there, including Snowy Plovers, Vermillion Flycatchers, and Cliff Swallows.
As many as 18,000 Lesser Sandhill Cranes (the largest count ever recorded at the refuge) and thousands of Snow Geese spend some of the winter at the refuge’s wetlands. They begin arriving in late October, with some staying until late January. The greatest numbers are in late October and early November.
Thousands of ducks and wading birds spend at least part of the year at Bitter Lake. Northern Shovelers, Gadwalls, Northern Pintails, Ring-necked Ducks, teals, Lesser Scaups, and Ruddy Ducks all feed in the refuge’s waterways.
Wading birds such as Black-necked Stilts, Dunlins, Long-billed Dowitchers, Killdeer, American Avocets, sandpipers, and egrets also find a safe place to feed at Bitter Lake.
But Bitter Lake NWR isn’t just a home for birds. There are 59 species of mammals there, as well as more than 50 species of reptiles and amphibians, 24 types of fish, and an astounding 100-plus species of dragonflies and damselflies.
A Unique Ecosystem for Unique Animals and Plants
Some tiny organisms are found here and nowhere else, like Noel’s Amphipod, a federally endangered invertebrate
sometimes called freshwater shrimp. Koster’s Springsnail and the Roswell Springsnail are tiny aquatic snails that live in spring-fed habitats only within the Bitter Lakes area. You can see some in the refuge’s visitor center using a large magnifying glass.
Unique species of fish make their homes at Bitter Lake as well. The Pecos Gambusia and the Pecos Pupfish are two endangered species found at Bitter Lake. These small fish only thrive under certain conditions, and efforts are being made to protect these environments to help ensure their survival. The refuge supports one of the largest and most actively managed populations in these species’ ranges.
The Pecos Sunflower (also called the Paradox Sunflower) is another resident of the area that only lives in pockets of habitat located throughout New Mexico and into Mexico. It is also the focus of conservation efforts by the Fish and Wildlife Service.
Dragonflies and Damselflies
If you love dragonflies and damselflies, you’ll find plenty to enjoy at Bitter Lake NWR. Be sure to schedule a visit during their annual Dragonfly Festival in September, which features special tours and activities.
With more than 100 species of these winged wonders found at Bitter Lake, it’s no surprise the refuge celebrates them in a big way. It’s interesting to note that each of their four wings can move independently, so NASA has studied them to replicate their unique maneuverability.
Did you know that both dragonflies and damselflies spend most of their lives underwater before they emerge to transform into winged creatures? If you spotted a dragonfly nymph in a pond, you likely wouldn’t recognize it as a future dragonfly. For about the first nine months of their lives, they are underwater hunters, snatching smaller aquatic insects, crustaceans, worms, snails, tadpoles, and even small fish. Then, they crawl out into the air and metamorphose into their final stage.
And, contrary to what some people may think, dragonflies and damselflies are different members of the order Odonata, not males and females of the same insect. You can distinguish them most easily by how their wings are held. At rest, a dragonfly’s wings are open while a damselfly’s wings are closed or partially spread. They also have thinner bodies than dragonflies.
While most species of dragonflies live their short above-water lives in the same area, a few species are migratory.
Visiting Bitter Lake NWR
The refuge is open daily during daylight hours. The visitor center is open Monday through Saturday, except federal holidays, from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. There is no fee to visit the refuge, but there is a donation box inside the visitor center to support the friends organization.
Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge offers opportunities to drive, bike, or hike to observe and photograph birds and other wildlife. Begin your visit at the extensive visitor center, which offers a wide range of displays, fish and snails in aquariums, and videos about both the refuge and the Odonata species that live there.
There is a large deck at the visitor center overlooking a body of water, so take some time to use the telescopes to see what species can be seen. The visitor center also has a nature shop operated by the Friends of Bitter Lake NWR that sells books, T-shirts, snacks, beverages, and more. If you don’t have binoculars, you can borrow a pair at the visitor center.
Near the visitor center, you can access the trailhead for the short (0.2 mile) Butterfly Trail. The refuge includes a few other short trails with the longest the two-mile Oxbow Loop near the southern boundary of the refuge.
After stopping at the visitor center, drive the eight-mile auto tour to explore the various units throughout the refuge. Bring your binoculars and a spotting scope if you have one, although there are a few scopes installed to use in key locations.
There is a picnic area along Wildlife Drive, and some vault toilets are available throughout the refuge. Overlooks and viewing platforms provide additional opportunities to observe wildlife.
Morning and evening are usually the best times for birdwatching, but there should be something interesting to see no matter when you visit. Take your time as you drive, and both look and listen for birds.
Finding Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge
To reach Bitter Lake NWR, take Highway 70/380 east of Roswell, turn north on Red Bridge Road, and east on Pine Lodge Road, which leads directly into the refuge.
Camping Near Bitter Lake
There is no camping at Bitter Lake NWR, but Bottomless Lakes State Park is nearby and has both tent and RV camping options. There is recreational swimming at Lea Lake, a large sinkhole, and the campsites offer picnic tables, BBQ grills, and shade covers, as well as a bathhouse with flush toilets, sinks, and showers.
Don’t Miss Bitter Lake NWR
While you may come to Roswell to check out the community’s famed alien connection, don’t miss the opportunity to spend time in nature at this outstanding refuge.
Story and images by Cheryl Fallstead.
Posted by Ruidoso.com
